Years ago, at the height of his industry acclaim, Narciso Rodriguez was heralded as a master architect of construction, and the ultimate designer of minimalist chic.
Fast forward to today and Rodriguez finds himself in new and less defined territory: Neither the household name Michael Kors has become, nor the darling of European editors Marc Jacobs has been deemed, Rodriguez has a whole new generation of New York designers fast on his heels. As they begin to ink fragrance deals, create diffusion lines, and land posts at luxury houses it seems the race has certainly tightened.
But don’t worry: Narciso is totally up to task, as he more than proved with his Spring 2013 collection and now, with his Pre-Fall collection.
For Pre-Fall, Narciso seems to have loosened up a bit, creating some of his most democratic and wearable clothing yet. The exacting eye is still there but it has pursued that contemporary, tomboyish cool and linear modernity that are so of-the-moment.
Rich leather paneling and fit-and-flare silhouettes brought the refinement and femininity, while razor-sharp slits and plunging v-necklines supplied some invigorating notes of danger. Chromatically, the collection juxtaposed chalky grey neutrals with spice and earth tones in keeping with palette concepts turning up at other influential presentations this season.